Work Sharp Precision Modify Knife Sharpener – Knife Sharpening Device Equipment – Sharpens Kitchen & Serrated Knives

Easy to use. Highly effective and high value. You’ll be happy with the results.
I came across this thing as a fluke and was intrigued. I had a Lansky years ago that I just could not get results with and I ended up giving it away and thought this was a retread. Conceptually it is the same. You lock the blade in place and the abrasives are guided, leading you to a consistent and clean edge. This entire set up is just easier to use. I added the lapping films and feathering adhesive and was very impressed with the results. I sharpened a PM2 with an S30V blade and a TAD Dauntless with an S35VN blade. The PM2 was a bit tougher to line up due to the blade shape, but once I realized the key was consistency, I locked it in and started at 20 degrees. From there I fine tuned the blade and took it through the ceramic stone and was very impressed with how well the knife cut. You develop a rhythm and technique and it does have a “feel” component. Once you feel a burr, flip the knife and do it again, hopefully near your first count of strokes but if you lose count, raise the burr on the other side and go to the next abrasive. It really is easy to use and the ceramic plate as the finest grit will be perfectly okay for most people. That will be the sharpest knife they’ve had or done themselves. If you want to go to the next level, using lapping film on the ceramic stone is easy and very effective. I took it to a 2500 grit and got a mirror polish on both the Dauntless and the PM2. The change in how the Dauntless performed was amazing. Using the films and adhesive on the ceramic stone is a great upgrade and very simple. A pack of the films is right around 4 bucks in the Wal-Mart automotive section, and I also bought as part of the package here. Not every edge will require a polish and the system is flexible enough to let you try some things with angles and varying grits on different parts of the blade. There are some things this sharpener is not designed to do. That said, for smaller blades, kitchen knives, EDC, etc., it is easy and effective. For larger blades, tools, scissors, and odd shaped blades, that is why you have multiple sharpening options, right? For some items you just can’t beat free-handing on water stones, or the guided bench sharpener from work sharp, or even a Sharpmaker For the two knives I sharpened here though, and I did it right out of the box the day I got the sharpener, I’ve never put a polish on an edge that fast or that well. I also don’t think I’ve ever made a blade edge that sharp. This is not a gimmick and it works well.
————-update 1 May
I just finished a ZT 0562 CF with a CTS 204P blade and it put a very nice edge on. Setting the edge with the 320 grit plate took a while, and I relieved the shoulders using the 15 degree position before going to 20 degrees. Once done, using the 600 and ceramic took it to not-quite polished but much sharper than out of the box. Getting a burr took a few minutes but once It was raised, honing it down was easy. Very impressed with the performance on 204P.

Entrance Sharpener
I rather enjoy using this sharpener. The fact I’m able to zen out and work on only the stroke vs having to maintain the angle is a huge win. The included grits are all you need to get your foot in the pool of sharpening. The only issue I have is you have to hold the unit itself because it’s not stable enough work alone. You are easily able to sharpen a wide length of blades.

Best sharpener at this price point!
I have never been one of those people that can sharpen a knife freehand with good results. It may be from a lack of depth perception I suffer from, or maybe it just isn’t my thing. For the past several years I’ve been sharpening with a drag through carbide sharpener that worked ok but I wasn’t fully happy with the results. Recently I purchased a few nice knives from Kizer and Oknife, and the edges on these new knives were so much better than what I was getting with the drag through plus I knew that wasn’t going to be an option when these new knives inevitably need to be sharpened. I have been interested in the Worksharp precision adjust system for a while, then they released the elite version which I knew would be the best one for me to get. I decided to get this for myself for my birthday and I’m really glad I did. I decided to sharpen my old SOG Trident Tanto that I carry to work. It has been used and abused for over 10 years, and has been a victim of several different sharpeners that didn’t do it any favors. I decided to re-profile the blade to 20 degrees, and the 220 grit stone made pretty fast work of it. The steel on this knife is rather hard and a lot of sharpeners didn’t seem to be able to remove material, which wasn’t an issue at all. Once I had the initial re-profile done with the 220 I worked through the 320, 400, 600, 800, and ceramic. At this point the results were amazing, then I hit it with the leather strop for the finishing touch. WOW! I now have a knife that is shaving sharp, just as sharp or sharper than any of my new knives. It took me roughly an hour to sharpen this blade, but in the future I’ll only have to touch it up so it should go much faster, maybe 10 minutes. I have never achieved results like this with any other sharpener. Now a little bit about the technique I used… I watched numerous videos beforehand on using the sharpener, and 1 from work sharp was very helpful where they used different techniques then examined the edge under a magnifier. Going back and forth in a sawing motion with the stone cuts the fastest, but does the roughest job. Pulling towards yourself (away from the pivot) is better, but the best and cleanest result is from pushing the stone towards the blade edge (towards the pivot) For the 220 and 320 I used the sawing motion for fast material removal. For the final strokes of the 320 and every grit after that I only honed towards the pivot, with the exception of the leather strop. You cannot push the strop into the sharp edge of the blade or you will cut and ruin it. I am very happy I purchased this sharpening system, there are even better versions out there but at a much higher cost. For someone like myself with several knives this is a good bang for the buck. While nothing is 100% foolproof if you’ve got common sense this should work out nicely. I do suggest watching some videos beforehand so you’ll have a good idea how to use it. The included manual is also helpful. I thing I do plan to purchase is an angle cube digital angle level, because the adjustment for the angles has a lot of room for error and that is a good tool to set the angle accurately and consistently. This is probably my only real complaint with this sharpener, (the angle adjustment) but it will be a non issue once I purchase the angle cube. One other thing, the clamp is made of metal so if you have a blade with a nice finish protect it with a bit of masking/painters tape so it doesn’t get scratched up.

La calidad es palpable y es muy facil de usar

I tried to learn hand sharpening on a water stone and after a few years of not really being satisfied with the results (knives were sharp enough to slice paper, but could struggle with a tomato skin) I broke down and got this guided sharpener.
Even after my first use it got my knives sharper than I’ve ever been able to manage on the water stone. I’m sure there’s better guided sharpeners out there that maybe can be attached more securely, hold the knife a little better (it’s adequate as long as you don’t get too rough and securely place the knife in), or have easier to use sharpening rods (they’re a little skinny so you have to be careful not to rock them). But for this price I doubt you’re going to find a better one. I also can’t speak much to the longevity of the sharpening surfaces, but for light use I’m sure they’ll last decently long. Works on pretty much any hard surface, you just have to hold it and be a little careful. Comes apart relatively easily and can store back in it’s packaging.