Smith’s CCKS 2-Step Knife Sharpener – Yellow – 2-Step Preset Coarse & High quality Slots – Out of doors Handheld Knife Sharpener – Fishing, Looking, Fillet, Pocket Knives – Compact Plastic Transportable Keychain Device

Best ones for the money.
I go through several of these a year. They’re inexpensive and do a good job. The problem with these inexpensive ones is they don’t last very long. Typically, they last anywhere from six months to a year. This depends upon how long you use them. The nice things about these is You can use them on your expensive knives and they don’t ruin them and they do an excellent job on sharpening with both the course and the fine adjustments. I keep one in the shop for my fishing knives and one in the house for the regular knives.

>>> DOES THE JOB
> The most convenient, compact, knife sharpener that I’ve found.> I use the ceramic side (with the little white cylinders) for sharpening kitchen knives (and my pocket knives). I hold the knives edge-up under running water in my sink with my left hand, and lightly move the sharpener with my right hand along the blade. About 10 very light strokes is usually enough to touch up an already fairly sharp knife.> I’ve nicked and scratched my kitchen countertop trying to sharpen long chef’s knives using sharpeners that I have to place on a countertop and drag knives through. I appreciate that I don’t have to set the Smith’s sharpener on a countertop.> A few other reviewers claim that the ceramic rods broke when they were trying to sharpen knives — if so, they were using WAY too much pressure. Use only a very light touch.> Generally speaking the carbide (metal) side should NEVER be used on chef’s knives or other fine blades. The carbide takes off too much metal. In quality knives, only the very edge is treated to be hard enough to hold a very sharp edge — grind that off (or scrape it off with a carbide sharpener), and all the sharpening in the world is a waste of time. Don’t misunderstand, you can sharpen such a blade to razor sharpness — but the blade will not hold the edge, it will quickly dull. A couple of other reviewers claim that the carbide chips fine blades — in which case the blades are permanently ruined.> Use the carbide side for axes, machetes, and other utility blades made of comparatively softer steel. But even a utility blade can be damaged by using too much pressure with a carbide sharpener — the edge of the blade becomes wavy and irregular.> You can touch up a utility blade, (that is, make it a little sharper) using the ceramic edge afterward — but that extra step is usually a waste of time for utility blades, which will dull quickly in use anyway.> Maybe “medium quality” blades (such as an average quality hunting knife) might benefit from carbide followed by ceramic, but try the ceramic only, first. If, say 30, swipes with the ceramic side does not adequately sharpen the knife, then try 5 light swipes with the carbide sharpener, followed by 20 light swipes with the ceramic, and so on.> There is another option for truly fine blades — a honer. If you see a chef “wiping” two chef’s knives against each other, that’s what he/she is doing — honing. But it is better to use a honing rod (and follow the instructions which come with it, or watch a U-tube video). Honing straightens up microscopically bent or folded portions of the edge, and can dramatically “sharpen” a knife without removing any metal. If you use a honer, maybe once in 5 or 10 times that you hone the knife, you’ll probably need to sharpen it with a ceramic sharpener — albeit only a few strokes, 10 at most.> Caution, large rod-like ceramic sharpeners are sometimes described as (or sold as) “honers” — maybe they hone and sharpen at the same time, but, if so, they are removing metal from your blade. The purpose of a honer (or a leather barber’s strop) is to sharpen without removing metal. I recommend using a metal honer, followed (if necessary) by minimal sharpening with a ceramic sharpener.> How can you tell when a chef’s knife is sharp? If (with a light sawing motion) the blade can cut a ripe tomato without depressing the skin, then it is sharp. I recommend that you forget about trying to sharpen blades sharp enough to shave the skin off your arms — in the real world, there is no use for chef’s knives, table knives, hunting knives, or pocket knives that sharp, and the weakened blades are more likely to chip. I doubt that you could get a knife that sharp with a Smith CKK sharpener. That’s not criticizing the Smith CKK sharpener — it does what it needs to do quickly and easily.> Do NOT use on scissors, bypass garden sheers, or grafting blades, or any other blades that are sharpened on only one side. Doing so will permanently ruin the blades.

These work better than my electric knife sharpener. Quality is excellent

Arrivato nei tempi descritti, si presenta pratico, intuitivo e comodo per portarlo ovunque. Non credo sia consigliato per coltelli di ottima fattura ma per tutto il resto svolge egregiamente il suo lavoro.consigliatissimo per il prezzo e la funzionalità. Puo essere attaccato ad un portachiavi anche per le sue dimensioni

Das kleine Ding ist einfach toll. Liegt lässig in der Messerschublade, braucht nicht viel Platz und ist damit auch sofort zur Hand.Total einfach zu bedienen und macht meine Küchenmesser blitzschnell scharf. Ich habe schon mehrere Haushalte damit versorgt und jedes mal gleich einen nachbestellt. Dies ist jetzt, glaube ich, der fünfte den ich kaufe. Den letzten wollte meine liebe Schwiegermutter nach ihrem Besuch gleich behalten ;)))))Absolute Empfehlung